Store rose cuttings in the refrigerator until spring. How to store rose cuttings in winter

Cuttings are one of the ways to propagate rose bushes. The optimal period for planting rose bushes is summer. Sometimes it happens that you have to postpone planting so that the cuttings survive the winter. For example, in regions with a temperate climate it is better to plant cuttings in early spring, and in southern regions it is better to root them in the fall, when the soil has warmed up well.

In this article we will talk about how to choose the right planting material, protect it from diseases and preserve it until planting in the spring.

A step-by-step guide for novice gardeners: how to preserve rose cuttings until spring

Preparing rose cuttings

How to store rose cuttings

Rooting roses in potatoes

One of the most beautiful garden crops, which is popular among ordinary people and experienced gardeners, is the rose.
The bush propagates in different ways, but experts advise using the cutting method. The article describes the features of autumn harvesting of planting material and how to preserve cuttings until spring.

Rooting in potatoes

Another moisture-absorbing material is raw potato tubers. Rooting rose cuttings in potatoes is a fairly reliable and proven method, since potatoes not only provide constant moisture, but also contain a considerable range of nutrients, in particular starch, necessary for roses to develop normally. For those who do not yet know how to preserve rose cuttings in ordinary potatoes until spring, a precise algorithm of actions is proposed:

• choose undamaged medium- or large-sized potato tubers;
• remove the eyes and treat the potatoes with any fungicide (optional);
• We treat sections of cuttings with a solution of potassium permanganate;
• put the material in any growth stimulator for 12 hours (you can use fresh aloe juice diluted with water 1:1);
• in each tuber, using a thin object (screwdriver, nail), we make a recess into which we place the cutting;
• Now we bury the potatoes in a pot (container) with an earthen mixture - alternatively, the potatoes can be placed in a bag and hung by the window.

Further care of the cuttings consists of timely moistening the soil. Once a week, it is advisable to water the sprouts with sweet water (1 tablespoon of sugar/glass of water), and after a month, feed them with a complex mineral mixture. While the cuttings are rooting, they must be covered with a glass jar to create a greenhouse effect. After 2-3 weeks, bud growth will become noticeable. After this, the shelter is removed, and the seedling is gradually accustomed to the environment. This method allows you to grow full-fledged seedlings during the winter, which can be transplanted into the ground in the spring, and by autumn you can admire the blooming roses.

How to choose and trim cuttings for storage

The plant from which shoots are planned to be cut should not have any damage or signs of disease. For blanks, twigs with a diameter of a pencil are suitable. Cuttings of this diameter have a better chance of survival and lush flowering.

The propagation method by cuttings is suitable for the following varieties:

• semi-climbing roses;
• climbing varieties of the Rambler group;
• all types of polyanthus, miniature roses;
• Flamentanz;
• Excelsa;
• Rosalinda (Floribunda group);
• Iceberg.

Before pruning, you need to select suitable bushes. You can tell when a plant is ready by how the needles break off. A rose whose thorns break easily is suitable for taking cuttings.

Reference! The shoots should be cut with a tool with a sharp blade. It is pre-disinfected in boiling water or using antiseptic solutions.

Basic rules for preparing cuttings:

1. shoots with a diameter of 0.4-08 cm are selected;
2. the length of the stem between cuts is 12-15 cm;
3. a prerequisite is the presence of 2-3 buds or leaves;
4. the cut in the upper part of the stem must be made smooth, the lower one - at a slope of 45°;
5. leaves and thorns on the cut shoot should be torn off;
6. to stimulate the rooting process, the lower cut is dipped into a solution prepared from Heteroauxin or Kornevin (can be replaced with sweet water: 200 ml of water and ½ tsp of liquid honey).

When choosing a rose bush for the purpose of preparing material for propagation, they are guided by the following criteria:

• the color of the shoots should be dark green or light brown;
• a light core is visible on the cut;
• pliability of the skin to separation;
• a lignified layer can be felt under the bark.

Timing of pruning

Cuttings of roses should be planned for the summer. Suitable months for work: June, July. After autumn pruning, it is a pity to dispose of healthy shoots. They produce strong cuttings when properly stored in winter. Advantages of autumn harvesting: high plant resistance to low temperatures, predisposition to the formation of side shoots.

In the spring you can also do cuttings. Already next season the first buds will appear on the young bush. But roses obtained from spring cuttings will be vulnerable to winter frosts. It is preferable to prune roses to obtain planting material in the fall.

Selection and preparation of rose cuttings for storage until spring

Cuttings are the easiest and most reliable way to propagate roses. In order for flowers to grow quickly in spring, it is important to properly prepare the material at the end of summer or autumn.
Before pruning, the bush is carefully inspected, only thick and healthy shoots are selected. This guarantees rapid survival of plants in the soil after planting. The stems should be green, elastic, without young shoots and leaves, traces of disease and insect damage . It is recommended to cut shoots from the middle part of the branch. The optimal thickness of the shoot is 4-5 mm, length - from 20 cm.

The work uses a sharpened pruner or knife, disinfected in alcohol or boiling water. The lower cut is made at an angle of 45° below the last bud. The upper cut is made straight, 2-3 cm above the bud. Movements must be precise and sharp. The branches are cleared of leaves and the cuts are dipped in liquid paraffin to prevent germination and evaporation of moisture.

Reference. In temperate climates, rose bushes are pruned at the end of September, leaving 3-4 shoots 30–50 cm long.

It is recommended to dig up cuttings of roses that were planted in summer and store them, since their root system is not yet sufficiently developed and will not survive the winter. This is a prerequisite for growing roses in regions where the winter temperature drops below -35°C.

Rose pruning time

The optimal time for preparing cuttings is summer. June and July are considered to be the most favorable months.

However, if you did not have time to prune, you can postpone the work until the fall, during the seasonal pruning.

Such early harvesting of cuttings guarantees high plant resistance to low temperatures and pests that the flower will encounter next year.

How to trim cuttings correctly

First, let's look at which types of roses are most suitable for cuttings:

• any variety of polyanthus or miniature roses;
• Excelsa roses;
• some types of semi-climbing roses;
• climbing roses of the Rambler group;
• roses of the Flamentanz variety;
• varieties "Iceberg" and "Rosalind" of the Floribunda group.

Important! You can determine whether the bush is ready to take cuttings by looking at the needles: if they break off easily, you can safely cut them.

1. Before you start cutting branches for planting, you need to prepare your tools. This can be a very sharp knife or scissors; the instrument must be sterilized before use by dipping it in boiling water.
2. The cuttings should be 12-15 cm long, and each should have 2-3 leaves and the same number of buds.
3. The bottom should be cut with bevel movements, and the top should be cut smoothly to distinguish the sides. The lower leaf plates and thorns must be torn off after cutting. To preserve moisture in the cuttings, it is recommended that the leaves remaining on each of them be either completely cut off or simply shortened by cutting off 1/3 of them.
4. To make roots from cuttings grow faster, you can dip their lower part into a solution of “Kornevin” or “Heteroauxin”. Or use a mixture of half a teaspoon of honey, 200 ml of water and crushed rose leaves to stimulate root growth.

Optimal conditions for preserving the cuttings

The preparations will withstand the winter well if optimal storage conditions are created. First of all, it is a stable temperature regime. It should be between +2° and +5°. Lower values ​​lead to freezing of the planting material; high temperatures will provoke the awakening of the shoot.

After trimming and treating with a special agent, the petioles are formed into a bunch of 10-15 pieces, after which they are sent to a box with sand. In addition to a stable temperature regime, it is necessary to limit access to bright light. The humidity in the storage should be 65-70%.

In winter, the cuttings are ventilated once a month. To do this, they are removed from the box or other container where the blanks are stored.

The safety of the cuttings will be ensured by following the following recommendations:

• freezing of workpieces should not be allowed;
• eliminate the possibility of shoots drying out;
• block access to rodents and pests;
• regularly inspect the bookmark (once every 3-4 weeks);
• take measures to preserve the plant’s dormant state (avoid sudden changes in temperature and humidity).

Reference! Most often, when preparing cuttings in the fall, gardeners propagate several varieties of roses at once. In order not to confuse them in the spring when planting, it is recommended that when storing for winter storage, attach a ribbon with the labeled name of the variety to each cutting.

Due to a violation of the moisture regime or as a result of a sharp change in temperature, the cuttings may become moldy. If condensation is detected, you need to wash the cuttings in an iodine solution or a product based on copper sulfate. It is also necessary to remove condensation from the shelter and disinfect it.

What conditions do cuttings require for preservation?

To preserve them, rose cuttings are kept in a cellar or basement until spring. The material is tied into bundles of 10 pieces, placed in boxes and covered with sand. The room temperature should be in the range –4…+7°С. At higher values, the cuttings will begin to germinate ahead of time; at lower values, they will freeze.

Optimal air humidity is 65–70%. At higher rates, the planting material will begin to rot, and in an excessively dry room it will dry out.

Some people place the cuttings vertically in a soil mixture of sod, peat and perlite (4:2:1). The container is wrapped in thick black polyethylene to block access to sunlight. Once a month, the film is removed to ventilate the cuttings. Each of them is carefully inspected for the presence of rot, and the soil mixture is watered if necessary.

Place

1. For example, you can store them in small holes, but this method is effective for a short period - 1-1.5 months. You can also keep the cuttings in a hole 20 cm deep. Protective material should be placed in this hole, then the cuttings, covered with material on top again and covered with soil. It is better to mark this hole with some kind of sign so that you can find it in the spring.
2. You can also store rose cuttings in a cool basement. To do this, you need to tie them into bunches of several pieces and sprinkle them with sand. After winter ends, the cuttings must be carefully dug up. If growth is already noticeable on them, it means they have overwintered successfully and can be planted.
3. If the gardener does not have a basement or a nearby area to store seedlings until spring, then they can be stored on the balcony or in the refrigerator. One of the conditions for such storage is maintaining the required temperature and humidity. The temperature should be no higher than 0...+5 degrees, and humidity should be about 90-95%. The cuttings should be packed in plastic bags, but not too tightly so as to leave access for air.

Protection from diseases

The most difficult thing about storing rose cuttings in winter is maintaining the required level of soil or air moisture. If there is excessive moisture, they often rot and die. Cuttings covered with plastic bottles should be ventilated from time to time . Even the appearance of leaves on them does not mean that the plant can be watered as an adult, since the roots are still weak and not strong enough.

1. Leaves may dry out and sometimes turn dark. Darkening of the leaves or stem means the occurrence of a fungal disease. Such diseases can be cured or prevented by spraying the cuttings with a solution of the biological preparation phytosporin.
2. In addition, cuttings may die due to damage to the roots, which occurs as a result of their hypothermia. To prevent this, you can use gliocladin tablets. You can simply stick them into the soil or water the cuttings with a solution of these tablets with water. Drafts and too small containers for storing cuttings can cause various diseases.

This is interesting: How to treat a pear from rust: treatments to get rid of stains on the leaves.
Necessary storage conditions are feeding the growing cuttings and sufficient lighting. If the cuttings have not yet budded, then you should not feed them. In a dormant state, cuttings endure winter more easily.

Caring for preserved plants

If the cuttings were stored in the soil in winter, they should be opened after the snow has melted. This period occurs at the end of March - beginning of April. The first time they should be taken out into the air in cloudy weather. For protection, you can sprinkle poison against rodents , which become active at this time and attack young shoots. Darkened cuttings should be removed, and the rest should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate.

After the soil dries, the shoots can be fed with organic and mineral fertilizers. A few weeks after this, you can do the final pruning and leave the strongest seedlings. At this time, re-treatment is carried out using solutions containing copper.

Storage methods

Experienced flower growers use the following storage methods for bunching petioles during the winter.

In the snow

This method involves digging a hole in a plot of land. Its depth should be 15-20 cm. The bottom of the recess is covered with cotton cloth. Cuttings on which all the leaves have previously been cut off are laid out on top of the litter. The branches are covered with another layer of fabric, after which the hole is filled with soil.

Reference! The edges of the hole should be marked with marks in the form of pegs. This will make it possible to navigate where the bookmark is located.

In the first half of March, I dig up the workpiece and inspect it for callus. This is the overgrown tissue from which roots grow. The petioles are sent to the prepared hole for further development of the plant.

On the balcony

It doesn’t matter if the farm doesn’t have a basement, but traveling to the dacha in winter is annoying. A favorable environment can be created on the balcony. To do this, you will need a wooden box, a little expanded clay and a suitable soil mixture (you can take one ready for flowers).

Rooting for storage

You can germinate the preparations using sphagnum or potatoes.

Using moss

To begin, select suitable moss. Sphagnum moss is suitable for germinating rose petioles. It must be treated with Fitosporin before use. The lower cut of the shoots is dipped in a solution that stimulates the rapid germination of roots.

After preparing the planting material, the blanks are wrapped in moss and placed in this form in a plastic bag. After the layer of sphagnum, you can make a layer of newspaper, then put the roll in polyethylene.

In this form, the material is stored in a cool place until spring. In the first days of March, you can begin to root the workpieces. The workflow includes the following steps:

1. unpacking cuttings;
2. trimming thorns;
3. filling the box with moss and river sand (layer of at least 3 cm);
4. moistening with settled liquid (from a spray bottle);
5. planting cuttings;
6. creating a greenhouse effect by attaching plastic film to the sides of the box.

A warm environment without access to sunlight is suitable for root germination. Humidification and ventilation are carried out periodically. After 1-1.5 months, the cuttings can be transferred to the garden bed.

In a potato tuber

The root vegetable is rich in starch and other valuable microelements. Therefore, potatoes are able to create a favorable environment for root germination. To complete the work, you will need to select healthy medium-sized vegetables, cut out the eyes, and treat them with a fungicide for disinfection.

The shoots are first cleared of leaves, the cut from below is moistened in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Small holes are made in the potatoes of a size that corresponds to the thickness of the workpiece. All that remains is to stick them into the root vegetables and place them in the container. A solution of potassium permanganate is used as an irrigation liquid. Each petiole is closed with a glass jar.

Periodically, the planting must be removed from the polyethylene to allow oxygen to enter. Also, taking into account the degree of moisture evaporation, moderate watering is carried out. For irrigation, it is recommended to use sweetened water (take 1 tablespoon of sugar per 250 ml of liquid).

How to use moss

In gardening, sphagnum moss is used for many purposes. This marsh plant has unique properties:

• can hold moisture 20 times its own weight;
• contains antibacterial compounds, thanks to which it is stored for a very long time without losing its valuable qualities.

It should be noted that high-moor peat consists of dead particles of sphagnum, and it is considered the most breathable and fertile peat layer. As for the use of moss in gardening, tubers, bulbs and other seed material are perfectly preserved in bog sphagnum. Its loose structure guarantees excellent ventilation, and its antibacterial properties prevent rotting and mold formation.

These qualities make it possible to use moss for storing rose cuttings. Before using the material, the lower cut of the moss must be treated with Fitosporin or aloe juice diluted with water in a ratio of 1:9. Then the cuttings should be wrapped in moss, placed in a plastic bag, and placed in a cold place - if there is no cellar or basement, then you can put it in the lower compartment of the refrigerator. If the moss begins to dry out, remove the bag and lightly spray the moss with water.

At the beginning of March you can start rooting the cuttings. They need to be taken out of the bag, freed from sphagnum, the thorns removed, if the sections were covered with paraffin, remove the paraffin. Next, you should prepare a container with a substrate in which the roses will be planted.

A thick layer of moss is placed at the bottom of the box or other container, and a small (3-5 cm) layer of pre-washed river sand is poured onto it. The cuttings are buried in this mixture at a slight angle so that no more than two buds remain on the surface. Then the container with seedlings is covered with a bag with several holes (for ventilation), and placed in a bright, warm place, but not in direct sunlight. The substrate must be moistened periodically. With this method, rose cuttings take root very quickly.

How to check the safety of a cutting in the spring

With the onset of spring, the active awakening of plants begins. It’s time to prepare the cuttings for planting. But first you need to check how the material survived the winter. This should be done just before planting (about a day in advance). Until this point, the cuttings should remain in cool storage.

The following signs will help determine the quality of the workpiece after winter storage in a special shelter:

• when bending the shoot, firmness and elasticity are felt;
• the bark has a fresh appearance, there is no wrinkling (dry and twisted cuttings are not used due to lack of vitality);
• when cut, the wood should be light green and fresh (brown or dark color indicates the death of the workpiece);
• tight fixation of the kidneys;
• smooth bud scales, elastic structure;
• a light green bud should open in the cut bud (brown contents indicate poor quality of the cutting).

Often, storing preparations for rose propagation results in the material freezing. In the spring, when opening the material, you can perform the following test.

• Update cuts that are made at a 45 degree slope. It is enough to shorten the workpiece by 0.8-1 cm.
• Place the cuttings in a container with clean water. If they are healthy, the liquid will remain clear. If yellowish-brown turbidity is detected, the material is rejected due to freezing.

You should not use low-quality or spoiled material for propagating roses; such shoots will not take root in the soil due to loss of vitality.

How to take cuttings correctly.

• We choose the strongest plant; its shoots should be no thicker than the diameter of the handle.

• Disinfect pruning tools using boiling water or alcohol.

• Carefully make cuts, straight from above, oblique from below. Each cutting should have three to five established buds.

• When planting a rose, do not tear off all the leaves from the cutting. This is an important factor in maintaining plant nutrition.

• Plant the cuttings in the ground at an angle of 45 degrees.

• Cover the future roses with a bottle. Don't forget to make small holes in the plastic to allow oxygen to pass through better. To prevent the cutting from freezing, sprinkle the bottle with leaves or lutrasil. It is better to mark the landing site.

Storing cuttings in winter.

You can save rose cuttings in the soil during the winter season. To do this, dig a hole about 15 centimeters deep. We insert stakes along its edges, otherwise there is a risk of not finding your roses later. You need to lay a cloth at the bottom of the hole. In this case, it is better to cut off the leaves; the cuttings should be at an equal distance. If you want to save cuttings of different varieties of roses, you should number them or mark them in any convenient way.

At the end of the winter season, dig a hole and remove the cuttings from it. There should be some serious growth on them, which means it’s time to plant your roses. It is important to note that as soon as the cuttings are pulled out of their cells, they must be planted immediately. We plant future roses in a container with water or a growth mixture.

Individual planting methods.

We dig a hole 30 centimeters deep. We fill two thirds of the space with grass. Place a layer of compost and peat on top. We water all this thoroughly, and then plant the cuttings in the hole. We create a kind of greenhouse for them on top. To do this, we place several strong, preferably iron, stakes in the ground and cover them with film in the shape of a tent. Along the edges, the film needs to be pressed more firmly to the ground. Your roses should be sprouting by spring.

Do not rush to throw away the branches after pruning, but simply stack them under the bushes. By spring they should remain in the same condition as they were. Now they can be planted in containers and kept in the shade until the warm season.

Storing roses in the basement in winter.

If roses are allowed to freeze in winter, they may stop blooming altogether. To prevent this, you can place it in the basement for the winter. Start preparing for this at the end of September, with the onset of the first cold weather.

The shoots must be dug at a depth of 30 - 70 centimeters. The length of the shoots directly depends on the age of your roses. Each finished shoot must have at least 8 buds. It is better to remove the leaves and tie the bare branches together with a clothesline. To be sure, you can treat them with anti-parasitic insecticides.

Roses should only be dug up in dry weather. If the soil is too wet, it will not be easy to remove it from the roots, or it may even damage the roots. If the season turns out to be too rainy, we pull out the bush along with the soil and store it in a dry place, and later remove the dried soil from it.

You need to build storage space in the basement. You can use plastic buckets or other containers. The bushes should be covered with soil and located close to each other. Containers should be shaken well while filling, so the roots will be better covered with soil. And, besides, it will be more convenient to transport the roses. Some people prefer sand to soil because it retains water longer. At the same time, it blocks the growth of your bushes. You can prepare special racks for roses, then you won’t need containers. The racks must be thoroughly washed, otherwise there is a risk of infection. We cover the shelves with paper and place bushes on them.

Inspect the shoots a couple of times a month. If you notice that the roots are very dry, water them with water. The temperature in the room where rose bushes are stored should not be higher than 4 degrees, otherwise the roses will begin to grow actively. However, too low a temperature can have a negative impact on your roses. To maintain optimal conditions in the room, we increase the humidity and, if necessary, insulate the room.

Storage on the balcony.

The rules for storing rose bushes on a balcony or loggia differ little from those discussed above. If the temperature on your balcony remains high in winter, you need to water the bushes weekly and also keep the windows open more often. In such cases, roses do not need fertilizing.

How to preserve rose cuttings in the refrigerator until spring.

Rose bushes can even be stored in the refrigerator. Of course, this will require a separate camera. Maintain a high level of humidity inside the refrigerator. Bushes should be placed in plastic bags. Be careful not to tie the bags too tightly to prevent oxygen flow to the roots.

How to store in soil

Every gardener knows that it is better to plant rose cuttings in June - July. Then by the end of summer they will take root, send out shoots, and in the fall the young seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place. But what to do if good planting material appears late? In southern climates with relatively warm winters, planting seedlings in the fall is practiced, but in temperate, and even more so in northern climates, it is better to save rose cuttings until spring, and then plant them in well-warmed soil.

Temporary storage of cuttings in soil is a fairly common option. Of course, it is not ideal, since the soil freezes in winter, but many ways have been invented to protect shoots from external influences and increase their chances of survival:

• cuttings must be of high quality and healthy - powerful shoots as thick as a pencil have the highest chance of surviving until spring;
• It is equally important to make the cuts correctly - the lower cut should be made at an acute angle slightly below the kidney, and it is recommended to leave the upper one straight; it should be cut with a sharply sharpened tool;
• you need to tear off all the leaves from the shoot;
• Next, the cuts must be treated with a means that inhibits the growth of the shoot - paraffin is best, which must be heated, dip the cut of the cutting into it and quickly lower it into cold water.

Such preparations can easily overwinter in the soil and not send out roots prematurely. Now you should think about how to effectively preserve rose cuttings until spring and choose the most appropriate method:

• small pits - this method is suitable for short-term storage (1-2 months);
• shallow trench with protective material;
• cellar or basement;
• cold greenhouse.

Let's look at each method in more detail. The most common way to bury cuttings in the country is in a trench. It is necessary to dig a shallow (20 cm) long hole and line its bottom with straw or non-woven protective material (agrospan). The prepared cuttings should be placed on this pillow, covered with the same covering material, and then covered with earth. The stems must be folded so that there is a small space between them. The place where the planting material is buried should be marked with small pegs to make it easier to find it in the spring.

But also in winter, cuttings can be stored in a cellar or basement. With this method, they are tied into bundles of several pieces, placed in boxes, and sprinkled with sand.

It is necessary to ensure that the room is always cool - otherwise the cuttings may take root.

A cold greenhouse is a small structure in the ground that allows not only to preserve planting material, but also to root it. To set up a greenhouse, you need to dig a hole 70-80 cm deep, lay straw (you can have hay) in layers on the bottom, peat on top, then a layer of earth. The cuttings are wrapped in dry cotton cloth and placed horizontally. A layer of straw or polystyrene is placed on top, and everything is covered with earth. During the winter, growths form on the cuttings, from which roots will soon appear. Shoots preserved in this way take root very quickly. And if everything was done correctly, then by autumn you can expect the first flowering.

What varieties of roses are propagated by cuttings?

It is not possible to prepare cuttings from every bush: a number of varieties have low survival rate. But most roses that grow in central Russia are easily propagated vegetatively. These include:

• miniature varieties (potted, balcony);
• polyanthus plants;
• semi-climbing roses;
• standard varieties Iceberg, Rosalind, Excelsa and derivatives from them.

Flower growers have a special attitude towards varieties of the hybrid tea group: they have good survival rate, and the bushes tolerate wintering well in the regions of Russia. But their root system is poorly developed. This creates difficulties when cutting roses and growing self-rooted seedlings, increasing the risk of freezing in winters with little snow. Therefore, tea roses are preferably propagated by grafting onto rootstocks with strong roots.

Rose propagation

Compared to grafting or seed propagation, cuttings are easier and more successful. Among the advantages of this method of flower propagation are:

• plants grown in this way are easier to care for, since their roots, as a rule, do not grow strongly and do not curl;
• roses grown by cuttings tolerate winter well and recover from dormant buds, even if the top layer of soil freezes;
• It’s not difficult to get material for growing, since cuttings can be cut from a given bouquet.

Most often, cuttings are carried out in the spring, early or mid-summer. In order not to cut off the branches that are blooming just at this time, you need to take care of the cuttings in the fall. It is important that the plant from which you will cut them is healthy and has shoots the diameter of a pencil. In this case, the chance that the flowers will germinate is much greater. In a permanent location, cuttings should be planted at an angle of 45°.

How to prepare rose cuttings in the fall?

Autumn cuttings make it possible to obtain material with mature wood and a completed growing season. Such branches survive long winter storage more easily and are less susceptible to rotting and molding. In addition, it is easier to select the right varieties, since the bushes have already bloomed in the summer, and the florist was able to evaluate their decorativeness and varietal suitability.

When cutting lignified cuttings, select shoots of the current year, 5-7 mm thick, with a formed light layer of wood under a greenish skin. There should be no mechanical damage or traces of pest activity on the stem covers. Selected shoots are cut into pieces 15-17 cm long, focusing on the number of nodes. Each segment must contain at least 3 intact, formed buds. Remaining foliage must be removed.

At the upper end, a straight cut is made at a distance of 5 mm from the base of the bud. The lower cut should be oblique: it starts on the opposite side of the kidney, approximately 1 mm below its base. Cut at an angle of about 45°. The cuts are made with a sharp knife so as not to knead, but to cut the plant tissue.

Ways to preserve cuttings in winter at home

Beeswax or paraffin will help protect the cuts from drying out and developing mold. Having melted any of the materials and cooled it to a warm state, dip both sections in the liquid and leave to harden. After this, you can store the cuttings until planting in different ways.

The main requirement is average humidity, at which the branches do not dry out, and a fairly low, but not negative temperature (+2...+5°C).

Storing cuttings in soil

Storing roses in the ground in winter will be successful only in regions where the soil does not freeze to a depth of more than 10-20 cm. In central Russia and the Siberian region, you can dig the material into the soil only in the cellar, where there are no negative temperatures.

In open ground, the cuttings are placed in a shallow (up to 20 cm) trench, after pre-processing the cuts and tying the planting material into bunches according to variety. Wrap each bundle in burlap or other dense natural fabric.

Straw or spandbond is placed at the bottom of the hole, and prepared planting material is laid out on top. Everything needs to be covered with foam or straw and a trench buried. In regions with little snowy winters and severe frosts, you can make additional insulation of the trench itself by filling it and the adjacent 20-25 cm around the perimeter with any porous material (straw, fallen leaves, shavings, etc.). Layer thickness -15-20 cm.

Storing and rooting cuttings in moss

Swamp sphagnum is a good material for storing rose cuttings. This is a moisture-intensive substrate that maintains good breathability. Moss has bactericidal properties, so storage in it reduces the risk of rotting and molding, and humidity remains at an acceptable level throughout the entire period.

Wrap the cuttings in bunches prepared for storage in a moss layer and place in a perforated plastic bag. At home, you can preserve rose seedlings until spring in the cellar, basement or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, where the temperature conditions are suitable for this purpose.

Rooting is carried out in March. Carefully remove paraffin from the sections. Soak the sphagnum well with water and spread it on a plastic film in a layer of about 2 cm. Place the cuttings so that a stem with 2 buds extends beyond the edge of the film. The distance between them is 5-7 cm. After this, roll the film into a roll: each cutting will be between layers of polyethylene, in the moss. Rolls with cuttings are placed in a container, labeling each variety. Rooting occurs within 14-28 days; as the sphagnum dries, it can be watered. Rooting is judged by the signs of growth in the outer buds.

Storing and rooting cuttings in potatoes

Potato tubers also serve as a good substrate for storing and rooting cuttings. When using them, there is no need to cover the sections with wax or paraffin. For storage and rooting, only healthy medium-sized potatoes are selected. The cuttings are placed in a solution of Kornevit or another stimulant for 12 hours. The eyes of the potatoes are removed, a hole is made so that the stalk fits tightly there, and the tubers are placed in a container. Cover the top with soil, leaving 2 buds above the surface.

In this state, the cuttings are kept until March, and then transferred to a warm room, where the box is placed in a mini-greenhouse. Rooting occurs within 2 weeks, then signs of growth appear: buds begin to develop.

Storing cuttings on the balcony

For summer residents who travel to the site only in the summer, it is more convenient to store roses in the winter on the balcony of a city apartment. An insulated loggia is suitable for this, where even in cold weather the temperature does not drop below 0°C.

The general preparation rules are the same as for preservation in the soil or cellar. It is important to treat the cuts from drying out and dig the planting material into a container or any box. If the balcony is not insulated, you can store the cuttings in the balcony vegetable storage. In regions with cold winters and in the absence of equipped storage areas on the balcony, you need to choose another method, since even short-term freezing of the cut material can destroy it.

Storage in the basement or refrigerator

Cuttings are prepared in the same way as for storage in the ground. The material is buried in a box in the vegetable store. When storing in a cellar, you can fill it with sand or wet sawdust. To store in the refrigerator, bunches of stems are wrapped in moistened thick paper and then in perforated polyethylene. Every 1-2 weeks you need to inspect the installation and, if necessary, spray the paper with water. The wrapper should remain damp at all times.

Under such storage conditions in the spring, callus will already form on the cuts, from which roots will soon develop. Cuttings are planted after positive temperatures have been established.

Sources:

https://megaogorod.com/atricle/3168-poshagovoe-rukovodstvo-dlya-nachinayushchih-sadovodov-kak-sohranit-cherenki-roz-do https://gardennews.ru/pravila-osennego-cherenkovaniya-roz/ https:/ /uborka-v-dome.ru/rasteniya/kak-sohranit-cherenki-roz.html

Best Practices

Cuttings can be stored in various places.

In potatoes

Potatoes are an excellent material for rooting cuttings . The starch it contains is a beneficial substance necessary for the growth of flowers.

1. First you need to select smooth medium potatoes and remove the eyes.
2. Then you need to make indentations in the center of each potato using a sharp nail or knife and stick the cuttings into them.
3. After this, they should be placed in small containers and covered with earth.

On the balcony

You can also store and grow cuttings on the balcony . At the same time, it is necessary to maintain the required level of moisture and temperature.

1. Before storing, cuttings must be treated in the same way as when preparing for storage in soil. You can use a box or bucket for storage.
2. The bottom needs to be covered with a drainage layer, the cuttings should be laid, and the top should be sprinkled with earth. If the winter is not very cold, then they can be wrapped in paper, and additionally wrapped with plastic bags on top, then put in a box.
3. Packed stems should be placed tightly together, and once a month they should be opened and checked for mold or excess moisture.

In the open ground

Cuttings can also be stored in open ground, while observing certain storage conditions.

1. It is necessary to place the cutting in the ground at a certain angle, leaving a third on the surface.
2. Then you need to cover it with a plastic bottle without a bottom and make holes on the sides. In severe winter conditions, it is better to cover the top with foliage.

In addition, you can store the cuttings in an earthen hole. To do this, you need to line the bottom of the hole with a cloth, lay the cuttings, cover them with the same cloth, and then cover them with earth. The main thing is to mark this place in order to dig up and plant the ripened shoots in the spring.

More information about how to preserve cuttings in open ground is described in this video: