Why it is unacceptable to use expired, old paint for repairs

How to revive acrylic paint

If, as a result of long-term storage, the paint has thickened or small lumps have formed in it, then in this case the paint can be revived:

• If it has dried, then add a little water to the thickened paint and mix the mixture thoroughly - as a result you should get an acrylic mixture of optimal consistency. If the mixture still remains thick, then repeat the procedure.
• If viscous lumps have formed in the paint, then instead of water, pour in a little alcohol and mix the solution. If lumps remain, then add more alcohol and stir the mixture again. Vodka, which is in fact a mixture of water and alcohol, can also be used as an alcohol solvent (however, other alcoholic drinks cannot be used, since they contain additional impurities).
• You can also buy a special solvent for thickened paints in the store, but in most cases its use is impractical (if you still bought it, then dilute the dried paint according to the instructions).

Alternative options

If acrylic paint has turned into one solid polymer due to storage errors, then it can also be saved. However, please note that polymerization sometimes destroys the coloring pigment, so in some cases “reanimation” is not practical.

1. Cut open the can and remove the hardened paint.
2. Using a hammer and chisel, break the paint into several blocks, and then use a hammer to grind the blocks into a powder (you can use other tools if you wish).
3. Place the powder in a large container.
4. Bring water to a boil, pour the powder over it and stir the mixture.
5. After cooling, strain the liquid through cheesecloth.
6. Repeat the procedure (boiling water-cooling-straining) until you get a homogeneous acrylic mixture.

Storing PF paint - why can’t it be stored in the cold, because it doesn’t freeze?

Each manufacturer indicates on the label of the paint container the storage conditions for this paint. This is, as a rule, a guaranteed shelf life, during which, subject to storage conditions, the paint does not lose its technological properties, and the coating retains its performance properties. Storage conditions different from those indicated on the label may change the properties of the paint itself and the properties of the coating or film after drying. For example, an anti-corrosion coating will not protect the metal from corrosion.

• For example, one manufacturer indicates that paint can be stored in a tightly closed jar in a temperature range from -40 to +40 Celsius, of course.
• Another manufacturer indicates that at temperatures from -40 to +40, the paint can be stored for only 6 months without losing its properties. At temperatures from -30 to +30, PF enamel can be stored for 12 months.
• If it is indicated on the can that paints cannot be stored in the cold, in general, this means that when exposed to low temperatures, the components of the paint are destroyed or the paint itself forms a coating after application and drying, the performance properties of which will not correspond to those stated in the documentation.

Each manufacturer indicates on the label of the paint container the storage conditions for this paint. This is, as a rule, a guaranteed shelf life, during which, subject to storage conditions, the paint does not lose its technological properties, and the coating retains its performance properties. Storage conditions different from those indicated on the label may change the properties of the paint itself and the properties of the coating or film after drying. For example, an anti-corrosion coating will not protect the metal from corrosion.

Possibility of paint damage

The composition can be stored for a long time. If a number of requirements are met, the substance will not have a negative effect on human health. When saving, certain conditions must be met.

When planning to use paint, you need to assess its current condition. To do this, mix the composition. If the substance separates, it is better to throw it away, as you may encounter various problems in the future.

What paints are preferable to use?

The following paints are considered the most in demand:

1. Water-based acrylic. Resistance to wear is high, resistance to abrasion during operation. Although it cannot be called a full-fledged coating that can be washed, small stains can still be removed, and no marks remain on clothes when touching the surface.
2. Water-dispersible silicone. Ideal for painting sanitary facilities, bathrooms and children's classrooms. Manufacturer's warranty - up to 5 thousand cleaning cycles are guaranteed.
3. Latex-based - rubber. Coating with this type of paint provides reliable waterproofing. It is most often used for finishing in the bathroom.

Taking into account all operational requirements and recommendations for storing the painting material, you can get an ideal surface that will delight owners and guests for a long time. Good luck with your purchase and great work!

Storing water-based paints for repair purposes (1 video)

Restoring dried acrylic paint: pros and cons

The paints are mixed and ready to go.
In conclusion, we will consider the issue of the pros and cons of restoring acrylic paint:

• Pros. If the paint has not turned into one large polymer, then it can usually be saved with ordinary water. At the same time, “reanimation” does not affect the quality of the coloring pigment. Restoring also allows you to save extra money that you would have to spend on buying new paints.
• Minuses. If the paint has turned into a polymer, it can still be saved by diluting it with boiling water, but in this case the paint's brightness and contrast often deteriorate.

Exposure to temperature changes

Now let's look at temperature changes when it is necessary to use a tool in the cold. At what temperatures can power tools be used? Answer: for any, but following simple rules.

During operation, the tool heats up, and according to the laws of physics, when heated, everything expands and increases in size. In cold weather, a hot instrument will absorb moist air around it as it cools, because the air is lower than the temperature of the cooling instrument. In general, it is better not to leave a hot instrument in the cold.

If after this you bring it into a warm room, it is also strictly forbidden to turn it on, even if it is still warm. You need to wait several hours until the “absorbed” moisture evaporates.

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In the opposite situation, when working first in heat and then in cold, there are no restrictions. You can continue to work in the cold with a hot tool brought from a warm room.

Also pay attention to power tool cords. With a cheap tool, it can become stiff and burst. If the cable is made of rubber, it is not afraid of frost and will easily withstand the test of low temperatures.

Another possible problem when using a tool in cold weather is that thick grease makes the rotor more difficult to rotate. This threatens the power tool brushes with freezing and burning. But again, when using normal lubricants there should be no problems: the tool warms up and the lubricant restores its capabilities, similar to starting a car in winter.

If the tool is equipped with a commutator motor, it may begin to spark in the cold. This threatens to damage the terminals and collector counters. Although they are essentially considered consumables for collector engines and their replacement is not a rare occurrence. But it’s up to the owner of the tool to decide - you can wait for warm days if you want to slightly extend the life of the manifold components.

First aid for paint vapor poisoning

At the first symptoms of acute paint vapor poisoning, you must:

• evacuate the victim from the place of exposure to toxins;
• ensure a flow of fresh air (open windows, doors, unbutton tight clothes);
• give plenty of alkaline drinks (milk, mineral water);
• If paint or solvent gets on your skin, rinse immediately with plenty of water.

In case of chronic poisoning, first aid measures are ineffective; qualified medical assistance is required.

Toxic types of paints

Any type of paint is dangerous for the body, regardless of its composition, the only difference is the degree of harmfulness. The packaging always indicates the composition by which you can determine the danger of the paint and find out the necessary protective measures. Main components included:

• polyvinyl acetate (BA);
• polyamides (AD);
• polyacrylates (AK);
• cellulose acetate (AC);
• polyacrylic copolymers (AC);
• bitumen, pitches (BT).

The most toxic are synthetic dyes: oil, acrylic, polyurethane, alkyd. They may contain salts of heavy metals (mercury, copper, arsenic, lead, zinc, etc.), xylenes, formaldehydes and other toxic substances. Solvents are also very dangerous, as they have a high degree of volatility:

• butyl acetate;
• acetone;
• trichlorethylene;
• solvent;
• butanol;
• trichlorethylene;
• toluene;
• dimethylethylene;
• carbon tetrachloride.

Less dangerous paint and varnish materials include water-dispersion, silicate, emulsion, and adhesive paints. When using them, symptoms of intoxication, including allergic reactions, extremely rarely occur.

What are the requirements for paint?

In order for the walls to be perfectly painted, the following requirements apply to the paint composition::

1. After painting, the composition must be resistant to any abrasion. That is, after touching the wall, it is important that the dried layer does not wear off.
2. During application and during further use, the paint should not have a strong odor. For several days, the solvent aromas formed in the air are unlikely to please anyone, and it is not a fact that it will be possible to keep the windows open.
3. The paint must dry quickly, since it will not be convenient to wait a very long time for it to gain strength.
4. The coating must be selected to be easy to clean in areas such as a bathroom or kitchen.
5. Another important indicator for buyers is the low cost of the material.

Materials

Collect cans that have little paint left. We will pour the remaining mixture into sealed glass containers.

Prepare an old 1.5-2 liter plastic water bottle and a sharp knife.

Buy glass jars with lids and metal clamps. We will store paint in them. Containers must close well and not let air through. The shelf life of the paint depends on the tightness of the cans.

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You will also need paper labels, glue and a bright marker. With their help we will create stickers for each jar.